JEN-KEN CERAMICS & GLASS KILN OWNER'S MANUAL | Back | |
| Read and understand all operating instructions before operating your kiln. | |
| SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: | Kilns are as safe as any other electrical appliance when used under normal and proper operating conditions. All safety precautions throughout this manual should be observed. |
| 1. |
Do not install kiln closer than 12 inches from any surface. Also read "Choosing a location." |
| 2. |
Do not place the kiln on any flammable surface (i.e., Carpet, Wood, Linoleum, etc.) |
| 3. |
Make sure all electrical specifications are followed. Use correct voltage, wire size,
and breaker. Make sure all connections are tight. Avoid using aluminum wire. |
| 4. |
Always use the proper receptacle. |
| 5. |
Install in covered, well-ventilated area. Fumes from the ware, glazes, lusters, and paints have to be vented to the
outside. Never use your kiln outside! Avoid moisture. |
| 6. |
Always keep children and unsupervised personnel away. Surface will get hot and a
burn could result. |
| 7. |
Do not operate kiln over maximum temperature rating. Ceramic 2300 °F, Glass 1800 °F |
| 8. |
Fire clay, glaze, overglaze, and glass only to the manufacturer's recommended firing
temperature. Improper firing temperatures could result in damage to your kiln. |
| 9. |
Replace any worn or defective parts with ONLY genuine Jen-Ken Kiln replacement
parts. |
| 10. |
Never place anything above or under the kiln for storage, nor should anything be
propped up against the kiln. |
| 11. |
Do not store or use flammable products near your kiln such as gasoline, paint,
aerosol cans, paper, curtains, plastic, etc. |
| 12. |
A qualified electrician or service person should be used for all electrical service or
repairs. |
| 13. |
If the kiln power cord becomes damaged or corroded, replace the cord
immediately. |
| 14. |
Unplug the kiln before servicing or vacuuming. |
| 15. |
Do not touch or attempt to replace elements while the kiln is plugged in. |
| 16. |
Kiln must be properly grounded. |
| 17. |
Never allow the power cord to touch the kiln. Never use an extension cord. |
| 18. |
Do not drop or slam the lid shut. |
| 19. |
Let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening the lid. |
| 20. |
Make sure all switches are turned to "OFF" before opening the lid. |
| 21. |
If your ceramic kiln is equipped with a Kiln-Sitter, be sure to have the correct cone in the sitter.
(Example: Do not use a Cone 6 in place of a Cone 06). This would ruin your ware. |
| 22. |
Be sure the Kiln-Sitter is adjusted properly, as shown in the Dawson Kiln-Sitter Manual.
Check the adjustment periodically (about every 20-30 firings or if the tube assembly in
the kiln has been bumped by a shelf while loading. |
| 23. |
NEVER LEAVE THE KILN FIRING UNATTENDED. |
| 24. |
Use common sense while installing and using. |
| 25. |
Do not reach into a firing kiln. |
| 26. |
Do not insert any object into a firing kiln. |
| 27. |
If you must open a kiln during firing, wear high-temperature gloves or you may receive a severe burn. |
CHOOSING A LOCATION:The proper location is as important as choosing the right kiln. Below are some safety guidelines.
Installation diagrams
Electrical Specifications:To operate the kiln safely and efficiently, your kiln needs the proper electrical outlet with the correct electrical capacity and voltage. The chart below will assist you in the selection of the proper wire and breaker size for your Jen-Ken Kiln. A licensed electrician or the local power company should determine if you have the proper voltage. A kiln that is manufactured for 240 volts of service will not run properly on 208 volts. This difference of 32 volts is about a 25% reduction in power, which hinders a kiln from reaching higher temperatures. Likewise, if you have, 240 volts and you install a kiln manufactured for 208 volts, it will heat so rapidly it will damage the ware or glass in the kiln. Improper elements can be dangerous. Be sure to have the proper elements in your kiln to match the electrical service.
If you have 240 volts of service you must have 240 volt coils. ELEMENTS: Elements are the coils of wire that produce heat inside the kiln. They are made from the highest quality, high temperature wire available. During the firing they become very soft and when cool become brittle. Life expectancy of the elements will depend on the number of firings and the firing temperatures. At lower temperatures, the elements will last longer than firing at high temperatures. Care should be taken to make sure that no foreign matter, such as glazes, clay, or kiln wash, come into contact with the elements. This will greatly reduce their life expectancy. Regular vacuuming of the kiln lid, bottom, and the element grooves is recommended. |
Jen-Ken Ceramic Kilns | |||||
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Models JK, FR, & PF | Voltage | Amperage Draw | Wire Size Required | Fuse Required | Receptacle |
| 11/9 | 120 | 17 | 12 | 20 | 5-20R |
| 1811 | 240 | 20 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| 1822 | 240 | 26 | 8 | 30 | 10-30R |
| 2422 | 240 | 36 | 6 | 50 | 10-50R |
| 2431 | 240 | 45 | 6 | 50 | 10-50R |
| 2829* | 240 | 45 or 55 | 6 | 50 or 60 | 10-50R or DW |
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* The 2829 Series can be ordered as a 45 amp kiln or a high fire 55 amp requiring direct wire installation. For kilns ordered with the 208 volt elements, the same amperages, wire size, breaker and receptacle should be followed as the 240 chart above. |
Jen-Ken Glass Kilns | |||||
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Models G, GS, afg | Amperage Draw | Wire Size Required | Fuse Required | Receptacle | |
| Bead Annealer | 120 | 10 | 14 | 15 | 5-15R |
| G-18 | 120 | 15 | 12 | 20 | 5-20R |
| GS-18 | 240 | 15 | 12 | 20 | 10-20R |
| GS-11-E | 120 | 17 | 12 | 20 | 5-20R |
| GS-18-E | 240 | 20 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| GS-24-E | 240 | 25 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| GS-28-E | 240 | 36 | 8 | 40 | 10-50R |
| afg-11-E | 120 | 17 | 12 | 20 | 5-20R |
| afg-18-E | 240 | 20 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| afg-24-E | 240 | 25 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| afg-28-E | 240 | 36 | 8 | 40 | 10-50R |
| Oval-9 | 240 | 36 | 6 | 50 | 10-50R |
| Oval-13 | 240 | 45 | 6 | 50 | 10-50R |
| Crucible-11 | 240 | 17 | 12 | 20 | 6-20R |
| Crucible-18 | 240 | 20 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| "Digital" or "Dial-A-Temp" Remote | 120 | 20 | 12 | 20 | 10-20R |
| "Digital" or "Dial-A-Temp" Remote | 240 | 30 | 10 | 30 | 10-30R |
| "Digital" or "Dial-A-Temp" Remote | 240 | 50 | 6 | 50 | 10-50R |
Outlets |
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5-15R
120 Volt
15 Amp
Standard Household
Outlet
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5-20R
120 Volt
20 Amp
Standard Household
Outlet with a dedicated 20 Amp circuit breaker
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6-20R
240 Volt
20 Amp
Power Tool Outlet
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10-30R
240 Volt
30 Amp
Electric Dryer Outlet
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10-50R
240 Volt
50 Amp
Electric Range Outlet
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If you have any question at all about the electrical hook-up, contact Jen-Ken at (941) 648-0585 during business hours or contact your local electrician. KILN BRICKAll Jen-Ken Kilns are made of hand-selected 2300 °F refractory brick. The brick is strong as a whole and has a very long life. The brick can chip easily and care should be taken to avoid bumps while loading and unloading a shelf. Frequently vacuum the brick lid, the grooves that the elements are in, and the bottom of the kiln. This will remove the dust, sand, and loose kiln wash from the kiln. Always unplug the kiln while cleaning it.KILN JACKETYour Jen-Ken Kiln is encased in a stainless steel jacket, and is also equipped with handles for easy moving. Due to the high temperatures, discoloration may appear on the stainless. A good metal polish usually will remove this discoloration. Do not clean the kiln while firing. Always unplug the kiln while cleaning it.ACCESSORIESShelves: Shelves help you make the most of the inside of your kiln. Shelves are sized a few inches smaller than the inside diameter of the kiln, so that they can be placed in and out of the kiln easier. They are made of refractory material so that they should be handled carefully. Shelves come in full and half sizes. Half shelves enable you to fire tall pieces on one side of the kiln and smaller ones on the other side. Should a crack appear in a shelf, break the shelf along the crack and use it as two separate pieces. A good coat of kiln wash should always be maintained on top of the shelves. Store shelves upright on edge leaning on a sturdy structure. Shelves stacked flat can put too much pressure on the bottom shelf and cause it to stress and crack.Posts: Posts are also made from refractory material and should be handled carefully. Posts range in height from ½" to 14". They are used to support the shelves in your kiln at different levels depending on the height of the ware you are firing. Usually three posts allow you to level the shelf easier (some prefer four). Ceramic Kiln Wash: Kiln wash is a protective coating used to keep glazes and porcelain from sticking to the kiln shelf and the kiln floor. Mix the desired amount of dry, high-fire kiln wash with water to the consistency of a thick cream, and stir thoroughly. Apply several thin coats of kiln wash with a haike brush to the kiln floor and the tops of the shelves, alternating directions, and let dry. When areas wear thin, they may be re-coated. If glazes or glass have dripped onto the shelves or the kiln floor, chip the glazes off, sand and smooth the area, then reapply the kiln wash. To test kiln wash, slide your hand over the surface of the kiln-washed shelf. If your hand is white & powdery, the kiln wash is satisfactory. Perform this test periodically, and when the palm of your hand is is clean, then re-apply kiln wash to the shelf to prevent the ware from sticking. Apply a thin coat of kiln wash to the cone supports on the Kiln-Sitter and to the bottom of the sensing rod where they come into contact with the cone. However, do not apply kiln wash to the cone or to the side of the porcelain tube. It is best to wear a dust mask while cleaning and working with kiln wash. Glass Kiln Wash: Glass kiln wash is a coat the keeps glass from adhering to the kiln shelf and the kiln floor in the event of a glass run. It is best to wear a dust mask while cleaning and working with kiln wash. Stir the kiln wash powder first with a spoon to mix the clays. Then add the kiln wash to water. The most common mixture is 4 cups of water to one cup of kiln wash powder. Stir to get most of the lumps out. Apply a protective coating of kiln wash to the floor of the kiln. Hot glass can create holes in the firebrick of the kiln. Apply kiln wash using a soft bristled brush - a haike brush, for example - to the kiln shelf. Feel free to stir the kiln wash in the mixing container with the brush as this will keep the clays from settling. Load the brush heavily with kiln wash when dipping it in. Flow the first coat on in one long brush stroke. Repeat this with parallel brush strokes. Allow the shelf to absorb most of the moisture, then apply another coat in a cross direction to the first. Repeat this for 8-10 coats. A thick layer of kiln wash will be easier to remove later and will last longer too. Too much kiln wash on a shelf is not a problem, unless it is uneven, but not enough will cause glass to stick to the shelf and eventually break. Store the unused kiln wash, liquid or powder, in a sealed container. Let the shelf stand for several days to dry or place it in the kiln and heat it up to 500 °F. with the lid propped open one inch. If the shelf surface is not smooth when dried, use the palm of your hand and rub the kiln-washed shelf gently in a circular motion. For a very smooth surface, wipe the kiln-washed shelf with an old pair of panty hose. Pyrometer: A pyrometer is a meter used to measure temperature inside the kiln. A thermocouple (sensing device) is attached to the meter and the end is inserted into the kiln to obtain the temperature reading. It is useful as a guide to show how fast the temperature is rising and when you are nearing your desired temperature. A pyrometer used for ceramics measures only temperature and should not be used as a substitute for a pyrometric cone in the Kiln-Sitter. A pyrometer can help prevent a potential over-fire. If the pyrometer reads a higher temperature than the cone firing temperature and the time is longer than usual, then you can turn the switch(es) to "OFF". If you are in doubt, about a firing, turn the kiln off, let it cool to room temperature, then inspect the cone and the firing. It far cheaper to put a new cone in and re-fire, than to over-fire the load. A thermocoupler can be inserted in through an open peephole. Sometimes this allows too much heat loss, then a peephole plug may be ordered that has a hole pre-drilled through it. Then the thermocoulper can slide in though peephole plug into the kiln. A pyrometer used for glass work is a useful tool that can gauge the rise in temperature over a period of time. Example: Take the temperature reading, wait 10 minutes, take the reading again, subtract the first from the second to find the difference. Then divide this number by 10 minutes to give the rate of rise per minute.
Insert the thermocoupler at least three inches into the kiln and do not allow the tip to touch anything inside the kiln. Make sure the ceramic block or the alloy rods never touch the outside metal skin of the kiln. Lid Prop: On glass kilns with the control panel mounted on the front and center of the kiln, there is a metal bar with two notches. This is the lid prop. (There is no lid prop on the 28-inch kiln.) The lid prop will enable the kiln to be vented for moisture and fume removal on the temperature rise, usually to about 800 °F. Then close the lid for the rest of the firing. Then the lid prop can be used to increase the cool-down time period after firing. Do not use the lid prop to cool down until the kiln temperature is below the annealing and critical temperature zone or you may introduce thermal shock into the glass, causing it to crack. WARNING: Do not touch the lid handle or the lid prop with your bare hands during firing or cooling down. Due to the escaping heat, all these items will be very hot and you will receive a severe burn. Wear high-temperature gloves to touch anything if you are using the lid prop. |
For all service questions, contact:
JEN-KEN KILNS 3615 Ventura Drive West Lakeland, FL 33811 USA (941) 648-0585 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||